A late, forceful start to the rainy season

25 01 2012

1:55pm, January 25, 2012. My office, Tete, Mozambique.

Greetings from rainy, rainy Tete! Mozambique’s coast has been hit by a series of cyclones during the past week or two, and the country is really taking a battering. Please be praying for the folks in Northern and Southern Moz, especially, who are losing their houses, fields and lives to flooding.

Tete’s inland geography and topography is generally rather prohibitive to rain events, but even we’ve received quite a bit of precipitation in recent days. I spent most of yesterday riding out to dam sites in the bush, and passed much of my travel time coming up with haikus to narrate the day. Below are just a few – I’d love to hear a haiku summary of each of your guys’ lives, too! Hope you all have a great finish to the week, and enjoy the last few days of this rapidly-passing month!

 

Gray light through the shades,

Windy rain against the panes.

Reminds me of home.

 

Rainy season’s here!

My neighborhood looks like an

African Venice.

 

Streets without drainage;

Wonder what’s in that water?

My bike’s a jet ski.

  

The huts are empty;

People must be in their fields.

Water-driven life.

 

High floods, erosion -

A dam washed away today.

Dam hard news to take.

 

No water at home.

I haven’t bathed in three days.

Ooh, shower outside!

 

Mosquitoes are gone?

No, they want to stay dry too.

They’re in my bedroom.





Drop the limp.

19 01 2012

12:25pm, January 15, 2012. The Bamba Centre, Tete, Mozambique.

Greetings from sunny, humid Tete! I arrived back in town on Friday evening, after another long and relatively productive week in Beira, and it feels surprisingly good to be home. It’s funny how familiarity produces its own sort of comfort, and how much this place has grown on me in the past years.

Cheng, my Zimbabwean roommate and brother, told me a story the other night that I can’t get out of my mind, and I wanted to share that with you this afternoon.

Rosa, Cheng’s older sister, lives about a mile away from us, and apparently Cheng spent a lot of time at her place over the holidays. Rosa and her husband take care of several children, including two young cousins who they’ve effectively adopted, and about a week ago Rosa sent the two boys to sell some chickens at a neighborhood market. It’s fairly common for folks here to raise poultry at home, and to sell the birds when some extra income is needed.

The cousins took the birds to the market, sold them, and began to walk back home. After a few minutes they were stopped by a stranger, who claimed to be a friend of Rosa’s family, and he asked where they had been. The older of the boys innocently explained their errand, revealing that they were returning home with the money, and the man ended up tricking them and stealing the cash.

Rosa is a fairly stern woman, and the boys were terrified at the thought of what she would do if she found out what had happened, so the older one came up with a plan. The two of them ripped up their pants and shirts, rubbed dirt in their hair, and stomped down the grass in an area along the path. They returned to the house in tears, the older one with a noticeable limp, and proclaimed that they had been beaten up and robbed.

Cheng, who’s quite good at reading people (and who was once a young boy, himself), apparently suspected that something wasn’t quite right, and he asked the boys to take him back to the scene of the crime. Upon arriving at the place with the disturbed grass, which they made sure to point out, Cheng asked each brother individually to tell his version of the story.

As you might imagine, the detailed accounts of the fictitious robbery didn’t line up very well, and eventually the boys confessed their lie and in tears (real this time) explained what had actually happened. The three of them walked back home together, and Cheng took Rosa aside to tell her about the boys’ confession. She was angry, understandably, and asked Cheng for his advice. My roommate suggested that the cousins had probably already suffered enough for their naivety and dishonesty, and had learned their lesson, so more punishment wouldn’t have much benefit.

The two boys were visibly frightened as Rosa approached them, and miserable in their guilt at losing the money and lying to cover it up. Rosa took a long look at them, smiled, and said some of the most powerful words I can imagine.

“It’s over, boys. It’s finished. You can stop walking with your limp now.”

Man. I love that.

The story is significant to me for a few reasons. First, I know, deeply, what those boys were feeling. I’ve made big mistakes before, lied about them, and felt the hellish vice grips of guilt and fear clamping down on my heart. I know the surging waves of panic that rise at the anticipation of inevitable consequences, and the even more horrible prospect of carrying around the ever-growing weight of a lie. Ugh. My body is tense just thinking about that.

Second, and more significantly, the story is poignant to me because I see Jesus’ fingerprints all over it. Complete forgiveness of sin, and the epic finality and explosive sigh of release that accompanies it, is perhaps the most significant experience available to human beings. Those of you who have heard Rosa’s words from another person know their power in completely changing a broken situation, and those who have heard them from the Perfect, Holy God of the Universe know their power in completely changing…everything.

“It’s over, boys. It’s finished.”

Cheng finished the narrative with a humorous epilogue, and it was only afterwards that I also began to consider its profundity.

After the boys had changed their clothes and washed up, the older cousin returned to the main room, still limping. The whole family burst out laughing, and someone repeated Rosa’s earlier words: “You don’t have to limp anymore!” Apparently the child had subconsciously maintained his act, perhaps forgetting that it was no longer necessary.

It was pretty late by the time Cheng finished his story, and as I lay in my customary feet-sticking-six-inches-off-the-end-of-the-bed, mosquito-net-wrapped-around-my-face sleeping position, I thought about how well the story’s end represents my own story.

I spent most of my high school years battling an addiction. The details of that time are probably irrelevant to this post, but suffice it to say that the addiction was unhealthy and destructive, and, like many addicts, I felt caught in a perpetual tug-of-war between a profound self-loathing and the special allowances I continued to make to maintain my own brokenness. Maybe some of you have been through that, too, or are even now feeling the pulls from both directions.

I sometimes wonder whether most Christians might actually find themselves in a similar place from time to time. Most folks probably don’t like to think about their junk in terms of addiction, I’d guess, but most of us, deep down, are fully aware of broken or unhealthy stuff in our lives that we just don’t want to get rid of. The reasons for doing so are plentiful – maybe our junk makes us feel sexy, or powerful, or calm, or secure, or even righteous – but whatever the motivation, we keep going back to our sin like a dog to its vomit, and it feels…normal.

The problem with many of our beliefs and assumptions about addiction, though, and about sin in general, is that they’re wrong. Ha. Statements like “once an addict, always an addict” and identities like “sinner, saved by grace”, as commonplace as they are, simply aren’t true.

For those of us who have decided to follow Jesus and accept the complete, absolute, ridiculous forgiveness he offers, and have received his Spirit in our lives, there’s absolutely no need to keep living in our unhealthy patterns. To do so is ludicrous, actually – just as ludicrous as the older brother’s ongoing limp. More than that, though, it’s detrimental to life; just as limps take the joy out of walking and dancing, ongoing sin sucks the joy out of being in relationship with God and other people.  

Those of you who read the Bible are likely familiar with Paul, and for those who don’t, all you really need to know is that he was a brilliant, Jesus-loving Jew who helped groups of confused Christians navigate the decades following Jesus’ death and resurrection, primarily through a series of letters sent to believers in different geographic regions.

Paul talked about this limp idea in a few places, but his letter to the Romans is especially interesting. Check out this passage, from Chapter 6, with my own italics added:

“What shall we say, then? Shall we go on sinning so that grace may increase?  By no means! We died to sin; how can we live in it any longer? Or don’t you know that all of us who were baptized into Christ Jesus were baptized into his death? We were therefore buried with him through baptism into death in order that, just as Christ was raised from the dead through the glory of the Father, we too may live a new life.

If we have been united with him like this in his death, we will certainly also be united with him in his resurrection. For we know that our old self was crucified with him so that the body of sin might be done away with, that we should no longer be slaves to sin – because anyone who has died has been freed from sin.

Now if we died with Christ, we believe that we will also live with him. For we know that since Christ was raised from the dead, he cannot die again; death no longer has mastery over him. The death he died, he died to sin once for all; but the life he lives, he lives to God.

In the same way, count yourselves dead to sin but alive to God in Christ Jesus […] for sin shall not be your master, because you are not under law, but under grace.”

I think that Cheng’s story captured an important paradigm shift that I first glimpsed during my senior year in high school, and which I still sometimes struggle to fully believe.

I used to interpret Paul’s words here and elsewhere as saying something to the effect of “Look, you ingrate, God did an amazingly merciful thing in forgiving you, so you should stop messing up and show some respect. You really should have had yourself together by now, you know.”

That might sound sort of silly, but I’m not convinced that it isn’t a message taught in many churches today, and that I’m the only one who sometimes suspects that God is angry or frustrated with me when I make the same stupid choice…again.

Without trying to be overdramatic, I think that any theology that depicts God as an exasperated cop comes straight from the pit of hell. Seriously. I think that God is probably much more like Rosa’s character in the story – He knows that our limps are both detrimental to the quality of our lives and completely unnecessary, so He looks at us with love in His eyes, repeatedly telling us that we’re free, and that we really don’t need to limp anymore.

Now, please don’t misunderstand what I’m saying here – the limp analogy has its limits, admittedly, and I don’t think that God and the angels sit around and laugh merrily at our foolishness every time we walk into a room and do something dumb. Real life limps are destructive, and no good dad laughs when his kid trips and falls. That said, though, it seems absurd to imagine the family in the story getting angry at the older boy’s continued limp, because it no longer had any connection to his current standing in those relationships. Instead of frustration at his limp, I can imagine Rosa feeling compassion, or maybe saying something like “Honey, I already forgave you, remember? This isn’t necessary anymore; it’s not who you really are. Go run and enjoy being a kid again!”    

The lies that have shaped our identity – those that tell us that we have to get drunk to have fun, to sleep around to experience intimacy, to gossip to feel like we belong, to buy a big house to be successful – are just that: lies. The King of the Universe LOVES us, man, and the joy and intimacy He offers us, and the worth and identity and success we’ve inherited simply by being His kids, are already realities in our lives. We’re not sinners, we’re saints, period. Let’s believe it, run with it, dance with it, and suck in the fresh air of freedom.

“It’s over, boys. It’s finished. You can stop walking with your limp now.” Amen, sister.





Learning from Failure

8 01 2012

15:48, January 8, 2012. My boss’ apartment, Beira, Mozambique.

Hi again, everyone. I came across an interesting Tedx Talk video the other day, located here, and thought that some of you might appreciate or benefit from it. In his 13-minute presentation, an engineer involved in the international development sector talks about how he and his colleagues have begun to acknowledge and learn from their failures, and challenges others to do the same. Lots of what he says resonates with my experiences during the past few years in Mozambique, and I found the talk to be fairly insightful and thought provoking. Enjoy!





New Year’s, and a bummer of a loss.

8 01 2012

10:57am, January 8, 2012. My boss’ apartment, Beira, Mozambique.

Happy New Year!

It’s hard to believe that 2012 is already here – I was just thinking back to the day in 2009 when I signed my three-year commitment with MCC, and the feeling that 2012 was some fantastical, far-off time and place. I just presented my final annual plan to the rest of the MCC Mozambique staff this past Wednesday, and with all of the transitions currently taking place, it rather feels like I’m moving into the beginning of the end of my time in this country. Whew. This is going to be a very big year, I think.

I had hoped to be back in Tete several days ago, but, as some of you know, my wallet was stolen about ten minutes after my arrival in Beira on the 31st, and I’ve had to stick around the city to deal with the resulting complications inherent to a loss of important documents (which included my residency ID that allows me to live in Mozambique, my Oregon driver’s license, and bank cards from both American and Mozambican institutions).

Lots of folks were praying with me that the wallet and documents would turn up, and I did everything I could think of to locate the missing items (including putting some announcements on the radio), but I’ve yet to receive any good news in that regard. I really appreciate all of you people and  your care for me, and while I don’t really understand why the prayers haven’t been answered, I trust God and whatever He’s up to. He’s a good Dad.

I’ve written before about the ineffectiveness of Mozambican bureaucratic processes, and had another bitter taste of that this week. In order to freely move about the country and procure new documents, I’m required to carry around and present an official police report showing that my wallet was, in fact, stolen, and that I’m not merely fabricating claims about my identity as a legal Mozambican resident, driver and bank account owner. Unfortunately, though, I was refused any documentation at the police station where I reported the crime (which was also a goofy experience – I had to loudly and repeatedly recount the story and explain the wallet’s many unfamiliar-to-Mozambicans contents while sitting next to a shouting, inebriated individual handcuffed to our shared bench), a situation reminiscent of last year’s stolen motorcycle fiasco.

New Year’s Eve was a tough one for me – the stolen wallet was only the most recent of a long line of frustrating setbacks, and I felt pretty discouraged and stuck. I had a very helpful conversation with my folks that night, though, and was reminded of some truths that I’d forgotten in the messiness of life. I really appreciate them.

Mr. Chauca, a Mozambican-trained judge and the resident MCC miracle-worker, was pretty indignant when I told him about the police report issue at our staff meeting, and he spent several hours on Thursday doing who-knows-what in the city. I don’t really know which methods Mr. Chauca employed, and he didn’t offer any explanations afterwards, but he returned from his mission with a police report in hand and apologies from the police department on his lips. Ha, God bless him.

So, in conclusion, I’m now trying to figure out the best way to get back to Tete, where I’ll begin the process of replacing my documents. All of the buses look to be full until Friday, with all of the late holiday travellers still traversing the country, so I may have a few more days to enjoy the coast before heading back to the lowveld.

Thanks for the continued prayer and love, everyone, and may the peace of Christ be with us all this year.





Christmas in the Save Conservancy

29 12 2011

16:36, December 28, 2011. A beautiful house in Borrowdale neighbourhood, Harare, Zimbabwe.

Happy Christmas! After an amazing holiday week, different from any I’ve experienced before, I’m taking a quick moment on my last afternoon in Zimbabwe to write up this post. It’s a cool, rainy day in Harare, and while I’m a bit fatigued from the past weeks of travel, I’m relishing the low temperatures and verdant vistas of this capital city. Also, there are two birds in a cage sitting about ten feet from me, and they keep saying funny things in a variety of men’s and women’s voices, which is pretty distracting and weird. Ha.

As I mentioned in my last post, I spent Christmas this year with some Zimbabwean friends and their extended family, at a hunting camp in a vast nature reserve called the Save Conservancy. My friend Alexandre (JB and Gigi’s son) works as a professional hunter apprentice for a company with a very large land concession, and he got stuck taking care of the property and camp over the Christmas weekend, so he invited his family (and me!) to spend the holiday there with him.

The Save Conservancy is utterly beautiful at the moment, with an explosion of jungle-like foliage accompanying the arrival of the rainy season. The hunting camp is situated in an area rather like my visualization of Eden: a grove of huge trees, a seasonal river teeming with fish, exotic animals freely walking about, a complete absence of other people, and a swimming pool. It’s an amazing place.

I had planned on relaxing at the camp, catching up on sleep and doing some reading (You may remember a goal I made to read a book per week this year; not to spoil the results or anything, but I didn’t come very close to making it. Stay tuned for some reading highlights in a future post, however.), but there ended up being far too much to do for me to sit around. Here’s a breakdown of the first 16 hours’ activities following our arrival, just to give you an idea:

4:30pm – Pull into camp after an 8-hour drive from Tete.

4:34pm – Head into the bush on an impala hunt. (I believe Alexandre’s quote, as we got out of the car, was “Hi. We need to find some braai (BBQ) meat before dinner.”)

5:45pm – Arrive back in camp with a large impala.

5:50pm – Swim in pool, and dry off by a fire pit while looking at the massive trees around camp.

6:15pm – Borrow the camp’s dirt bike to go looking for animals; see baboons, impala, and kudu.

7:00pm – Stand around braai while meat cooks, and pretend to be useful.

7:15pm – Eat a delicious feast.

8:15pm – Sit around the fire, roast marshmallows, listen to a symphony of frogs (we counted six different types) and animals, and get to know the family members I haven’t met before.

10:00pm – Sleep for 7 hours.

5:00am – Drink coffee by the pool.

5:15am – Walk along seasonal river, see waterbuck, catch 15 fish on a fishing rod.

8:20am – Go swimming in the pool.

8:30am – Eat a delicious breakfast.

Pretty idyllic, right? Other highlights of our stay in the Save Conservancy included more fishing and hunting, amazing food, crazy animal encounters during long walks in the bush (it was ridiculous – sort of like walking around a zoo, without any cages), falling asleep at night to the sounds of lions roaring and leopards growling outside, and quality time with some really neat, really hospitable friends. (See a few photos following this paragraph.) I also shot a gun for the first time in my life, and that was an interesting experience. Christmas Day saw a complete absence of carols and lights and things of that sort, which was bizarre, and I missed my family and friends somethin’ fierce, but I couldn’t help enjoying the novelty and adventure of a holiday in the bush. I’m very grateful to have an adopted family on this side of the world, and for their efforts to make me feel welcome… and I’m also very, very excited about the idea of spending next Christmas at home. : )

I’m planning to head back to Tete tomorrow, catch up on life, emails, and my housing situation there, and then return to Beira for New Year’s and a staff meeting next week. This should be the final phase of a nearly-nonstop month of travel – I think I’ve slept in eight beds during the past three weeks!

Peace to you all during this inter-holiday time, and I hope you have a wonderful finish to 2011!





Maputo meetings and SwaziMania 2011.

20 12 2011

22:06, December 19, 2011. A red-eye flight somewhere between Maputo and Tete, Mozambique.

I’m writing this post from an excessively-spacious exit row seat – a nice bonus to finish up what’s been a really terrific last few days. The small airplanes employed for domestic flights in Mozambique usually leave me with barely enough room to wedge in my computer between my chest and the seat back in front of me, and as any fellow tall folks reading this post will agree, an unplanned exit row seat assignment is a blessing straight from the throne of Heaven. Ha.

The week that’s passed since my last post was filled with a nice mix of chaos and adventure. My MCC and CCM colleagues had planned several days of capacity-building meetings before CCM’s annual national conference on Thursday and Friday, but things went awry soon after our arrival in Maputo. After many months of waiting for news, we learned that the primary anticipated funder for the next several years of our program postponed any decision for at least six months (perhaps indefinitely), and that the planned national expansion of our work is thus without resources to get off the ground (which sounds sort of ironic, as the program’s acronym, ASA, means “wing” in Portuguese).

All plans of capacity building meetings were abandoned, and my colleagues and I instead spent the week in tense strategizing sessions, drafting concept papers and budgets for brand new project proposals. It looks like the next months will likely include very little construction or other activities, which, while certainly a disappointment for everyone involved, will probably actually be a good time of regrouping and planning for me and my colleagues in Tete. We’ve been working at a furious pace during the last six months, wrapping up the food security projects in Tete and Manica, and I’ve got a backlog of side projects awaiting a pause like this one. So, the week in Maputo wasn’t great, but we made real progress in picking up the pieces, and I see some potential silver linings in the midst of bad news. Mm.

As I mentioned in my last post, some of my friends and I took off to visit a new (to me) country this weekend: Swaziland! I knew very little about that country before moving to Southern Africa, so I thought it might be interesting to finish off this post by writing a bit about the 30-ish hours I spent there, and some of the things I saw and learned. Ready?

Swaziland is a very interesting, very beautiful country. Actually, perhaps that’s a good place to start: it’s not really a country at all, but a kingdom. There’s a real-life king, who has something like 50 wives, and he rules a kingdom of a little over a million Swazi people. It’s also known as a nation with one of (if not the) highest rates of HIV/AIDS in the world; if Wikipedia’s correct, over 26% of the population, and more than 50% of folks in their 20s, are infected.

Other than the high prevalence of HIV/AIDS and the current economic difficulties outweighing those of its growing neighbors, I’ve only got positive things to say about Swaziland and the people I met there. It’s a pretty small place; an island of lush, picturesque highlands and drier lowveld, dwarfed by Mozambique to the north and South Africa to the south. In addition to being one of the most beautiful countries I’ve visited thus far, it definitely earned the distinction as the most polite and welcoming – each stranger I met in the street would stop, remove his hat, offer a very warm greeting, and go out of his way to offer assistance for anything my friends and I might need, even to the point of significant personal inconvenience. It was crazy, humbling and rather wonderful, and I quickly found myself adopting the warmth and greeting folks in the same way. Love is pretty catchy, I think.

In addition to exploring two major cities, my friends and I also visited two game reserves, and saw lots of interesting animals and some amazing scenery. If I hadn’t had a flight back to Tete to catch this evening, I would have loved to spend more time in the national parks, which are crazy-cheap (about US$3 for a day pass) and quite striking. We went on a three-hour hike in one park yesterday (you can see a few photos below; others are on Facebook), and saw the tallest waterfall in the country. It was great.

Another thing I really liked about Swaziland was the attention given to anti-corruption and environmental conservation initiatives, all over the kingdom. I love Mozambique, but I think it’s yet to develop to the point where people have the time and resources to worry about those areas, and few things ruin an experience for me like corrupt officials and trashed landscapes. I wasn’t stopped by a single police officer in about 400km of driving in Swaziland, which seemed crazy, and I really appreciated the well-maintained, clean cities and roadways (and flowering trees growing along the sides!).

Despite its level of development, Swaziland still feels like Africa, and that struck me as both important and impressive. I stopped by a modern shopping mall this morning, and between groups of teenage hipsters sporting the latest fashions spotted a shirtless man in traditional Swazi garb: a skirt-like piece of fabric with an animal skin covering, and something like an intricately-tied scarf around his neck. It was a neat picture of colliding worlds, though I can’t imagine what he was buying (or where he kept his money).

So, in conclusion, should you one day find yourself in this part of the world (or if you already live here), I’d highly recommend a visit the Kingdom of Swaziland – it’s a unique, charming little nation, and well worth a few days’ stay.

Well, it looks like this flight is actually making a stop in a city called Quelimane on the way to Tete (this will make seven of the ten Mozambican provinces that I’ve visited in the past two weeks!), and we’re about to land, so I should probably wrap this post up here. I’m not sure when I’ll write next, as I’ll officially start my Christmas break on Wednesday, when I head off for about a week in the Zimbabwean bush. So, with that, I hope you all have a very merry Christmas, wherever you may be, and may the peace of Christ be with you as you connect with family and friends, reflecting on the year and looking forward to the next!





Dive Vilanculos: Check.

13 12 2011

20:07, December 11, 2011. An amazing thatched roof house, Vilanculos, Mozambique.

Man, this has been one of the craziest days of my life. Ha.

Before I tell you about it, some background: I’m currently in the town of Vilanculos, located on the east coast of Mozambique, in a province called Inhambane. Several colleagues and I decided to spend a few nights here to break up our long drive to Maputo, and we went in together to rent a Swiss Family Robinson-reminiscent house at an amazing resort located right on the beach.

The beach itself is, I believe, the most beautiful of any I’ve ever been to (other than the Oregon coast, of course). Seriously, though. I’ll put some pictures up on Facebook sometime in the next few days, hopefully, but it’s on par with the best airline ads out there – white sand, groves of tall coconut palms, impossibly-turquoise (and warm) water, and picturesque fishing boats called dhows. I couldn’t really process the view when we first arrived here yesterday, and had to sit down for a while to contemplate how amazing God’s world is.

The other relevant piece of background is that I have a bucket list of things I’d love to do before I die, and one of the things on the list was to go SCUBA diving somewhere warm and clear. I was SCUBA certified in the Puget Sound, off the coast of Seattle, and while that area is amazing and beautiful in its own way, the conditions are quite challenging (incredibly low visibility, cold water, strong currents, etc.).

So, after lots of thought and waiting, I finally had the chance to cross that item off the list, as my colleague Katie and I spent the whole day on and around some islands offshore of Vilanculos, diving, snorkeling and hanging out with a small group of very interesting people. The weather was calm, the sky was clear, and the day included a series of ridiculous experiences that I can’t really imagine repeating. Ha. Here’s a short list of things I did or saw, in order:

  1. We started off by setting up a base camp on a desert-looking island (it’s basically a big sand dune in the middle of the ocean), putting up a makeshift shelter there, and did some pre-dive briefings. The snorkelers stayed at the island, and the divers headed out for a nearby reef.
  2. On the first of two dives, I swam along with a sea turtle for the first several minutes, and subsequently saw eight devil rays, a white tipped shark, multiple moray eels (including a giant moray swimming along the bottom), and a gazillian other types of fish and corals. The visibility was about 20m, which is almost unbelievable, and I spent most of the 50 or so minutes underwater with very wide eyes. Seeing the rays was probably the highlight for me – I don’t think I’ve ever seen such graceful animals, in any medium, and they reminded me of very beautiful and efficient aircraft.
  3. After returning to the island to pick up the snorkelers, we all returned for a snorkeling session at a reef. We came across a school of spinner dolphins on the way out, so we threw on our snorkels and fins and jumped off the boat. The dolphins were a little shy, but we swam around with them for several minutes before they took off (they’re fast!), and it was very cool and surreal to hear their clicks and whistles underwater. The rest of the snorkeling trip was very neat, as well – we saw lots of other amazing fish, including my favorite, a juvenile angelfish (they look more like fancy doodles than fish).
  4. We went for a second dive after lunch, to finish off the day. About ten minutes in, my dive buddy and I were cruising along at a depth of about 60ft when we saw some dark shapes in front of us. We inched forward slowly, hugging the bottom, and watched as two gray reef sharks approached us and began circling at a distance of about 30 feet. It was amazing to see them in their own space, and to appreciate how powerful and authoritative sharks are underwater. Shortly after that, I dove down into a little canyon-type coral formation to look at a HUGE potato grouper (which is as ugly as its name), and was surprised to catch some movement out of the corner of my eye. I looked back to see three large batfish crowding me from behind, after apparently having followed my yellow fins for some distance. Ha! They looked really embarrassed to be caught, bumping into each other as they turned around and swam away. It was very goofy and comical, and I wasted some air laughing at them. Other neat sights on the dive included a huge tuna, clown fish in anemones, several iridescent parrotfish and crescent-tail wrasse, and a multitude of other beautiful creatures.

So, in conclusion, it was an amazing, wonderful day, and I feel super blessed to have had the opportunity to see and interact with such a crazy part of God’s world. He’s so good, and such a creative Creator!

Our little Vilanculos interlude will come to an end tomorrow morning, when my colleagues and I will continue on in our drive to Maputo. Hope you all had a great weekend!





Heading to Maputo…

12 12 2011

20:40, December 9, 2011. My boss’ apartment, Beira, Mozambique.

Hi guys! Well, after a final, crazy week in Tete, I took off early this morning on the first of several trips planned for this month. The nine-hour, 600km drive to Beira passed pretty quickly, with the accompaniment of some very good podcasts on my iPod, and the rainy season landscapes were truly stunning. The deep jungle greens and blood-red dirt were reminiscent of the Christmas season, and I was once again reminded of just how beautiful this country is.

I’m crashing at the MCC Mozambique national office in Beira tonight, and tomorrow will set out on a three-day drive to Maputo (including a day-and-a-half stop at a beach town along the way) with several colleagues. Next week will be devoted to a multi-day workshop with the water and food security program members and CCM’s national meetings, and hopefully a weekend jaunt to a nearby country that I’ve yet to visit. : )

I’ll try to write another post in the next few days, but hope you all had a great week, and I’d love to hear from you sometime!

Also, if you’re interested in reading more about Mozambique and the mining industry in the area I call home, the following are relevant news articles I’ve come across in the past week:

http://oneworldgroup.org/2011/11/29/mozambique-coalmines-not-reducing-poverty/

http://www.miningweekly.com/article/concern-over-proposed-amendments-to-mozambiques-mining-law-2011-11-24





Rosa’s back…

1 12 2011

7:45am, December 1, 2011. My office, Tete, Mozambique.

Man, how is it December already?! Sheesh, time is crazy…almost as crazy as a blazing-hot Christmas season (but not quite). There are a few things about Mozambique that I don’t think I’d ever get used to, were I to stay here indefinitely, and one of those is the season/holiday mix-up. My childhood memories and associations are waaay too strong for me to be okay with sunburns on Christmas Eve and decorated palm trees, and advent candles that melt before you light them. Ha.

Several folks have recently asked me about my housing situation, which had yet to be resolved when I mentioned it early last month. I hoped to wait to give an update until things were finally settled, but that’s yet to happen, and the story has actually taken some funny and ridiculous turns in the past weeks. So, for those of you who’ve asked, here’s the Reader’s Digest version of my personal housing crisis:

When Cheng and I found the new house I mentioned in my post from November 11, we interacted with a guy named Armando, who initially told us that his mother owned the place and that he’d be managing it for her. He had the keys to the house and some authority in speaking to the family that was moving out, so we took his word at face value, and signed a rental contract with him. We also paid the first three months’ rent upfront, which is pretty standard practice here; I had him sign a hand-written receipt for the first month’s rent, but he said that he’d bring me an official, printed receipt for the second and third months’ rent (which was the equivalent of about US$1,000).

To make a long story short, Armando ended up not being the owner of the house, and was actually contracted by the real owner simply to find renters. The contract he signed with us was illegitimate – the real owner never saw it – and after several weeks of broken promises to bring the receipt, Armando disappeared with the second and third months’ rent.

Cheng and I finally figured out what was going on at about the same time as Armando’s disappearance, and Cheng tracked down the real owner of the house at his workplace. Apparently the owner was about to kick us out of the house, as we were living there without having signed any contract that he knew about, and he had only received one month’s rent. Cheng explained the situation to him, and the owner said that because we didn’t have any evidence regarding the missing money, he wouldn’t have anything to do with its recovery. He also said that we’d have to sign a new contract, with him this time, and the document he produced ended up being very different from the one we’d originally signed with Armando. The new contract took away lots of the selling features we had liked, and gave us much more responsibility for the house in the case of emergencies. The owner gave a copy of the contract to Cheng last Friday, the day after Thanksgiving, and allowed us the weekend to think it over.

As you can imagine, last weekend was a tricky one, and Cheng and I had lots to figure out. For one, we wanted to try and track down the guy who stole our money, and see what we could do about getting it back. Second, we had strong suspicions that the real owner and the fake landlord were actually working together, as the new contract felt like a bit of a bait-and-switch maneuver, so we decided to look for a quick exit strategy (which would ordinarily be something of a joke; remember that it had taken us more than a month of dedicated looking to find that place, with Tete’s crazy housing market). Also, we had three or four people employed to do carpentry, electrical and plumbing repairs at the time, so we tried to figure out how best to cancel their work and reimburse them fairly for the half-jobs they had completed. Ha. It was a mess, and we prayed a lot.

For those of you who’ve been reading my blog for a long time, you may remember, from way back in the beginning of my term, a very long story about an impromptu road trip that I took with an eccentric Mozambican woman I met in a restaurant. (If you don’t, it’s probably not worth going back to.) In any case, I had also been looking for a house at the time of that trip, and last weekend I remembered that Rosa (that’s the woman’s name) had mentioned something during our drive about some domestic workers’ quarters she was building on her property.

Two years had passed since I’d spoken with Rosa, but I still had her number in my phone (under the name “Rosa Crazy” – oops), and decided to give the idea a shot. I sent her a long text message with obscure details about myself and our short-lived friendship, she remembered me and called back, and we decided to meet that night and talk over the situation. I ended up running errands with her and her Australian husband, David, for well over three hours, and by the end we had struck a deal. They’re really wonderful folks, and, even aside from the housing situation, it was really good to reconnect with them.

So, here’s the current situation, as it stands: The place we’re going to move into is still in construction, and is probably about a month away from completion. Rosa and David spend 95 percent of their time living and working out in the bush, so they’re going to let us live in their own house until the construction is done (which is kind of weird, but extremely generous and trusting of them), and we’ll help oversee the building process. We signed a contract yesterday, and will probably move into their place in the next several days.

Whew.

In reflection, the past month has been hard, and good. It’s amazing to me how God provides for our needs, and how He’s able to set up unlikely and funny ways out of tricky situations. Several of my friends around town have counseled Cheng and me to lie to the fake and real landlords, setting up traps or taking advantage of them to “make things right”, and it’s been cool to refuse those options, trust God to take care of us (don’t get the impression that I’m super-holy or anything, though – there were definitely some pretty anxious moments in there…), and see alternate options unfold in front of us. Man, He’s so good.

It’s also been hard to feel like my time is being wasted, and that I’m unable to engage fully with my work because I have so many other things to take care of. That’s certainly a cultural issue on my part – the idea of fixing a value to one’s time is something I brought with me to Mozambique – but it’s a difficult one to release. I’m definitely ready to get settled down, get our stuff out of storage (Cheng and I have been sharing a single spoon and mug for the past month and a half. Ha!), and return to a semi-normal lifestyle for the last months of my contract. I’ll keep you posted. :)

Hey, before I wrap this up, I just want to say thanks to the folks here in Tete and in other parts of the world for all of your prayers, care, and for taking the time to read these posts. I really appreciate you people, and the role you’ve played in my time here. So, thank you!





Boom town

24 11 2011

15:35, November 23, 2011. Novo Milano Lebanese Restaurant, Tete, Mozambique.

I’ve gotten into the habit of reading the daily news headlines, both from regional and international sources, in an attempt to stay at least nominally connected to the rest of the world. Over the course of the past year or two, the contrast between the stories about Mozambique and the stories about Europe and North America has grown steadily, to the point that it’s become almost surreal.

While some of the world’s most powerful and wealthy nations continue to flounder in the economic recession that I think everyone’s a bit tired of hearing about, the impoverished nation I currently call home is booming, and Tete, which claims the largest known coal deposit in the world, seems to be the epicenter of it all.

Check out this interesting fact: Mozambique’s currency, the metical, has performed better against the US dollar this year than any other currency in the world, and it’s up by a crazy 21% on the dollar since January. (You can imagine the havoc that’s wreaked on the budgets of institutions like the one I work for, which receive their funding in USD and spend it in meticais.) It’s sometimes a bit difficult for me to imagine what people back home are feeling, to be honest, because there are no signs of recession here, and the environment in this country is absolutely electric.

Some days, I feel like I’m living a history lesson – watching a boom town in the beginnings of its boom, and experiencing firsthand both the growing pains and feelings of limitless potential that promises of extraordinary wealth can bring. I can imagine that the West Coast must have felt a bit like this during the Gold Rush of the mid-1800s, as did the U.S. housing market before the bubble burst – everyone’s trying to get in on a piece of the action, and the city can hardly grow fast enough to keep up with the exploding demands of the burgeoning population. I don’t think anyone really knows what’s going to happen to Tete when the coal runs out, and whether I’ll visit fifty years from now to find a ghost town, but it’s been quite the experience to watch this city, and this country, make such great strides in such a few short years.

Please be praying for the nation of Mozambique; specifically, that it will handle its wealth of natural resources well, and that the growth will benefit economies and people at the local level. Please also pray for the Church in Mozambique, as it seeks to share the love of Jesus in the midst of quickly-changing cultural values and ambitions.

Oh, and happy Thanksgiving, to those of you back in the States!








Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 30 other followers